Saturday, April 18, 2015

Two days of awesome walking

We left Arcade at 7:45am, heading towards Pontevedra and lunch with our ex-neighbour's mother, whose apt overlooks the camino. We took a lovely scenic route so instead of walking 12km we likely put in about 14. 
We finally reached Rosa's house and she welcomed us warmly. After about 20 minutes chatting, the doorbell rang and she said her cleaning lady had arrived. In comes a young woman with impeccable English. Something didn't seem quite right and after bringing in and putting away a broom and dustpan, the truth finally came out. This was another of Rosa's daughters. We all had a good laugh and then headed out for lunch. Getting to the café took us through part of the downtown and we soon realized this was a town that we would visit again. After lunch.....I had jamon, queso and red wine, we went to another café for coffee. We were served a couple complimentary churros but unfortunately they weren't fresh. We promised Mel that we would find some fresh churros in Santiago. 
We finally returned to Rosa's apt, picked up our packs and headed out at 3:30pm for another 10km. It started to rain a bit, but the scenery was so lovely we didn't care. We finally arrived at the next albergue at 6pm. Again, a fabulous welcome. The Hospitalero was in a wheelchair, spoke only Spanish and had done the camino at least three times. Amazing. He made a dinner for the ten of us of chicken soup, salad, tortilla Español and bread. And the wine flowed. Everyone seemed to be quite tired so most were in their bunks by 9:30. Lights out at 10.  
Today, we left again at 7:45, planning to stop for breakfast about 2km down the road. That café was closed, so we walked another 8km to the first open one we could find. A great omelette for me, and bacon and cheese bocadillas for Les and Mel. We met a young man from Montreal there, who had stayed at this small albergue/café for three nights. He had arrived very sick and he said they had taken care of him like he was their child. He was happy to be walking out the door again and on his way to Santiago. This is the place!
We walked on and after an hour or so, with me trying to dry my pants which I had washed (silly me) on the back of Les' pack. I was drying the rest of my clothes on the back of my pack and then the rain started. 
We walked for a bit but I badly needed to stop and put my feet up so we spied a bar and ordered three teas. What a treat. 
Another hour of walking and we arrived at an albergue 3km south of Padrón. A place called Pontecesures that had an albergue for 54 and a restaurant that offered food to pilgrims on a donativo  basis. We checked in to a beautifully clean, basically empty (2 other pilgrims) albergue. Mel and Les say the showers are great but my towel is still soaked so I'm passing. I rested while Les and Mel went to check on the restaurant. After a few beer, thy returned to say it was basically a dump, with junk all round and a guy drinking heavily, lining up the beer cans as he drank them. After enjoting a couple of berrs and some pimientos Padrón, they made the wise decision that this would not be a place we would enjoy for dinner. We dressed warmly as it's 11C at 8pm, and found a bar that would serve omelette, fries, calamari and wine. We thought we had ordered patatas bravas as Les loves them, but what came out of the kitchen was French fries with a spicy mayonnaise. We've promised Mel some good Spanish food in Santiago. We'll have breakfast tomorrow in Padrón   
Off to bed now and hopes for another gorgeous day tomorrow. We may make it to Santiago. 

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