Leaving Spain

We had a fabulous, but too short a time, in Á Coruña and then a day walking around Madrid, after which tapas were in order. 

At the tapas market in Madrid. 

Near the palace in Madrid. The wanted me to pick up a gun, but no way!

In Á Coruña with Sonomi and Lanzada. 

Plaza Ana in Á Coruña. 

We have arrived!

Our last day of walking started after a breakfast if fried eggs and coffee. We knew it might be awhile before we found a café open because (a) it’s Sunday and (b) it’s later in the season. 

But again by 9am we were basking in the glory of the sun and the smell of eucalyptus. 

A mist hung over the fields, helping with irrigation I suppose but also making us stop and admire every five minutes or so. 

And this is the best way for seniors to take selfies. 

We came upon a lovely man from Columbia selling Camino trinkets. He seemed more interested in connecting with us personally than selling anything. His brother has lived in Nagoya for ten years so he and Sonomi had a bit of a conversation in English and Japanese. 

Here’s Les trying to decide what to buy. 

Those who have been in camino will recognize this

And this.... the cathedral is still undergoing cleaning and repairs. 

We’ve now finished some tapas and wine at my favourite tapas place, Do Bispo, and I’m ready for bed. 

Bed is at Hostel Suso which has undergone major renos. 

Another boringly beautiful day

And so many laughs with Sonomi. 

Seniors taking selfies:

And other photos from our walk of 20km, much of it through eucalyptus forest. Wish I could include the scent in this missive. 

And this is what happens if you stand around doing nothing in Galicia. 

Hard to believe only one more day to put on our packs and walk. 

Japan has joined us!!!

We rose in a leisurely fashion as we had no need to rush. We enjoyed our breakfast and when I asked for the bill, we were told it was included in the price of the room. A wonderful surprise. So the most important thing today on our agenda was to walk 6 km to Melide to meet the bus that was carrying our good friend, Sonomi, from the Santiago airport. She flew from Japan to Madrid last night and then did the flight to Santiago this morning. 

We waited at Garnacha, the pulperia and the bus was 15 minutes late. When it did arrive, no Sonomi! I asked the bus driver if a Japanese pilgrim had been on the bus. He said she got off at the previous stop, so Les stayed with the bags and I headed down the street. About four blocks down, she rounded the corner and we jumped up and down across the street from each other. Quite a sight I’m sure. 

Finally, at the pulperia, we tucked into a great lunch. 

We then set off for our 14km to Arzúa. Of course, the scenery was gorgeous and the conversation was fast and free as we caught up on all the news. 

We were all tired by the time we arrived in Arzúa. We had bumped into Dave from UK (who looks remarkably like nephew David) and walked with him for the last 4km. The place we were hoping to stay was closed for some vacations but the tourist info found us something close by. 

Our room

The view from our room. 

We are now back from dinner, ready for bed and looking forward to tomorrow, the penultimate day of this Camino. The pension is packed with late arriving pilgrims, so with only two bathrooms, tomorrow morning will be chaos. Fortunately Les and I opted for the ensuite room, so Sonomi can share our facilities as we prepare to leave in the morning. 

And again, we strike it lucky!

We started today with a weak coffee, toast and cake, in a dim café at the hostal. We walked about 12km before finding anything open and then a lovely café, to enjoy a late breakfast/early lunch in the sun. 

We actually couldn’t eat all of the tortilla. It was huge and tasty and the coffee great. All for 6.60€. 

It was around here that I realized I had lost my pee machine : www.freshette.com/ I have had this as my traveling companion for 10 years, through Spain, France, Germany, Poland, Austria, Czech Republic, Italy, UK and Japan. Now I have to squat like the other ladies. But I still don’t need TP. The world and especially lovely trails, don’t need toilet paper scattered. So here’s my rant: if you’re using toilet paper, pack it out! If you think that’s kind of yucky, imagine how the volunteers who pick up after you with their gloves and green garbage bags feel. 

Enough rant. We walked along and in one garden saw both holly (that’s blue sky in the background) and oranges. 

As we went down a path Les saw a sign promising toilet in 5 metres. I was expecting the usual toilet paper all over the wooded area, but instead.....

After 19km I felt I’d had it so called ahead to a place that sounded very nice. 55€ for 2. They had a room so we rolled up an hour later and a happy surprise.....only 40€. And it’s deluxe. 

After inspecting towels and shower we repaired to the bar for a glass of wine in the sun. 

This is the life!

Chocolate crisis

We’ve been through 3 chocolate bars so far in the trip. Two Lindt ones from home (thanks Dylan) and one Valor from a grocery store here. 

After a very fine sleep last night, we woke knowing there would be no breakfast so had decided to split the mandarin orange, finish off the cheese (less then 1sq.in.) and have some of the chocolate that I bought in Astorga. Dark chocolate with strawberry. 

But this is what was inside. Kind of like very sweet strawberry yogurt. 

We bought a Valor bar after we’d had breakfast in Portomarin. 

We may live. 

We are now in an albergue which also has private rooms for 38€ and this is the backyard. 
In the middle of nowhere again, Hospital de la Cruz, with nothing to do but put our feet up, eat, drink, read and then sleep. 22km today and another 22 tomorrow. 

86km to Santiago!

We’ve landed in it again!

We are so fortunate to have this spectacular weather. Every day more sun. We are having to slow down as we don’t want to get to Melide a day before Sonomi ;-) so today we have walked 14-15km and stopped at a small place that had some rooms. My legs and feet are thanking me. The walk has been through a forested path, in and out of farms and we would pass or be passed by, the same 6-8 pilgrims that we have seen in the last week or so. We saw one poor Korean guy who had been bitten by bedbugs in Ponferrada. 

About 2pm, we saw a sign at a farm, providing food for donativo. The woman ahead of us was having a cake donut laced with honey. We chose the crepe with homemade cheese, from the cows and homemade honey from the bees. Can’t get more natural than that! And delish!

And we are now 500 metres down the road at a private albergue with our own room. 

All this.....and towels for 40€!

And this is our view! Should be marvellous for star gazing tonight. 

Triacastela to Sarria via Samos

Yesterday was a long day....18km to Sarria unless you took the detour to Samos, which we did, so it was 27km of undulating paths through forests, a few dwellings, cows and all in the sun! But some of those hills were black diamond!

The river/stream had wee falls all the way along. 

Six arrows, just in case we were lost!!

We entered a wooded area at one pointed and were still able to smell the smoke from a forest fire perhaps a month ago. Blackened trunks all over and a big fire stop ditch. 

A sign we hadn’t seen before, but useful I think. This was just past the sign below. Three lovely stone homes in a row where the road is quite narrow. Clearly there was s need for the sign above which is a shame. Why do people think they can use others’ property as a toilet?

So after12km, we reached Samos, climbing down into town as the bells rung 11:15. Of course, I was starving so ordered an omelette:

And gazed at the famous monastery. 

I had been here in 1999.  In fact Roberta and I had stayed overnight in the albergue and frozen. At that time there were 13 monks and now there are only 8. 

We met a nice couple of missionaries from Idaho who are now working in Á Coruña. While I was chatting with her, he paid for our tickets for the tour, so we had no choice but to take it. The beer making facility at the monastery had caught fire in 1951 and caused extensive damage to both cloisters. Spanish artists were hired to paint murals in the walls. 

As we entered Sarria at 5pm, quite exhausted, we walked up the 60 or so steps to the Rua Mayor where there were two pension albergues open. We walked into one that looked quite clean, were greeted warmly and given a 3 bed room to ourselves. Without unpacking, Les inspected one bed and then turned to find a bedbug crawling up the wall by the door. We were out of there in a flash. Down the 60 steps again and into the four ⭐️ Hotel Alfonso which we had passed 10 minutes earlier. 20€ more and worth every centime. 

Best sleep ever!!!