I walked for another hour or so, found myself in a bit of a pickle as I was beside a minor road and having to cross over a major highway to get to the other side of the tracks that I could see. I checked the map again and then remembered Doug’s advice to download the Spanish maps. I had hesitated as I thought my map might look a mess but bingo bongo and in 10 seconds, in the middle of nowhere I had a yellow (Spanish) line on my map and saw that the red line (Dutch) was different. So, I found a route, and then saw some arrows to take me under the tracks.
When I finally pulled into Utrera about 5, I was completely spent. I phone a hostal (family owned hotel) that was about 1km away and she said she’d wait for me. I was like a horse to the barn door and she wasn’t there. I buzzed, waited 5 minutes and then called again. She’d lost the keys, she’d be there in 10. I waited 20 and then called the Hotel Verecruz and hustled back the 1km. The hostal was nowhere near restaurants and was 25€. The hotel had 3 restaurants and 3 bars on the street and breakfast included for 53€. And there was a hair dryer. As anyone on Camino knows, the hair dryer is such a bonus as you can dry your clothes!!! So I took myself out to a restaurant which served tapas and platos. The first tapa was a plate with two breaded fish, each almost the size of my hand. No photo as I inhaled them. The second tapa was a mero empanado. Fish empanada right? No, even better: cod, peppers and pulpo on a skewer.
All this and two small beer for 8.50€. I slept so well.
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