Homeward bound

I'm writing this on the plane from Santiago to Madrid. A beautiful sunset outside and I'm definitely working with a sleep deficit. 

On the runway with the sun setting over Santiago. 

In the sky, thirty minutes later. 

I've had way too many late nights and early mornings, so am looking forward to sleeping over the Atlantic tomorrow. 

Yesterday, after breakfast with 200 other Hospitaleros, we took a city bus to O Miiledoiro, a town about 8km away, on the Camino Portugese. Lee from Holland and Daphne from Vancouver and I were joined by 7 or 8 others. Clearly there were more people ahead of us but we didn't see them. We should have been a group of 150-200. We managed to walk through a lovely eucalyptus forest, exchanging both Camino and Hospitalero stories. As with the Camino Francés, the concrete markers are being chased from this 

To this

And sometimes even this!

We returned to Santiago too late for the art show but in time to stuff a few tapas in before lunch. 

Really, there was food involved. 

And today we had the plenary session which was very interesting, at least that which I understood. I have found that I have no problem understanding the Spanish of those individuals for whom Spanish is a second language, but the native speakers leave me in the dust. 

I went back to pack and Lanzada made a lovely tortilla for lunch. 

As much as I'm looking forward to being home, I've thoroughly enjoyed my week in Santiago and could happily stay longer. 

Mass and food

Six of us attended the Friday night mass and the church was packed. It's the beginning of a four day weekend so many people had come from 'away' to visit Santiago. 

The nativity scene reminded me of the few that we saw in southern Spain with Stefan and his family last year. 

We went for a quick drink, Nick pouring,

and some tapas and then I walked home. For some reason I thought it was about 9pm, but, in fact, I walked through Lanzada's door after 10:30. She and Victor were waiting for me as they had invited their neighbours for dinner. So at 11, we sat down to a lovely salad and smoked salmon, a couple of bottles of wine and then cava. Before you knew it, it was close to 2am! Fortunately I didn't need to be up until 9 on Saturday. 

The same six had arranged to have lunch at the hotel San Francisco. The dining room:

So my ex-neighbour Rosa, her mother Rosa, from Pontevedra, joined Daphne, Nick, Naoko and I for a delicious lunch. As per Spanish schedules, lunch began after 1:30 and we didn't move from the table until 3:45, when Daphne and I had to rush off to register for the Encuentro. 

I know you've missed the food shots. This is my starter salad. 

And this is my salmon. Not a great picture, but delicious. 

The meetings have begun and I see familiar faces. The next three days will be a lot of loud, fast Spanish, so I know I'll be exhausted. 

In Santiago

And it seems a it surreal. We left Pedrouzo after our usual breakfast.....

Four of us walking, not together, but within sight of one another for the most part, knowing we'd all meet up for coffee and later a bowl of soup. As for me, as usual on the last day, there was a bit of a melancholy feeling. Perhaps the slight drizzle as we headed off was a part of this feeling. But the walking quickly turns melancholy to meditative and pure enjoyment of nature. The first 15km is absolutely beautiful, through eucalyptus forests, birds twittering and cocks crowing. Cows in the fields, farmers herding cows along the path. I finally reached this famous signpost but there was no one about and I'm terrible at selfies. 

Naoko and Andreu reached Monte de Gozo ahead of Nick and I. We sat and admired the view and wondered if a stop for red painkiller was in order. It wasn't so we carried on. 

The trudge through the outskirts is like through any of the larger cities on the Camino......just another trudge. But we reached the cathedral and took pics. 

There was no one else about except a TV crew so they interviewed Andreu. Apparently he was on the news last night. 

And then five others, with whom we had shared some albergues, showed up.....exhausted, emotional, and relieved. Our little band of four headed to the pilgrim office for our Credencial. 36 pilgrims registered today as compared with 2-3,000  on a summer's day. Nick booked into the Hostal Suso, Andreu and Naoko decided on an albergue, and then we went to Do Bispo, a fabulous tapas bar, to celebrate. 

I'm now staying with my friends, Lanzada and Victor, enjoying clean clothes (sent ahead), a room to myself, and a hot shower that could have gone on forever. And now for a few days in Santiago before the Encuentro begins on Saturday. 

Every day starts the same

Including putting on the clothes I wore the day before. Sort of reminds me of a ski holiday where you just vary the layers depending on the wind and cold. 

Today we headed to the first bar and ordered bacon and eggs and coffee. A great start to a cold day. The temperature is freezing or slightly above until at least noon. Makes for some lovely photos. 

We all eagerly walked into Melide, 15km to enjoy the pulpo. It was fabulous and gave us a break of just over an hour. 

Live octopus just before cooking. 

Just about to drop it into boiling water and then we were served. 

We had some fun, but oh, the next 20 km were steep up and down. Nick and I gave the locals a few laughs as we came down the hills backwards. Andreu's blue jacket was a welcome sight as he led us the last .5km to the albergue arriving after 6pm. It's freezing here and the Hospitalero just drove Andreu to the bar to buy dinner (beer) for us. His wife is doing our laundry and we are feeling cold and pampered. 

Snowman one

Tonight about ten of us went to a restaurant to eat and celebrate Paul's bday. Early in the evening he said that he had seen his snowman on the news. He said that he had built snowmen from Rabanal on down to Cruz de Ferro and the one that was on TV was one he had it on a bench. But on TV, another one was beside it and he was wondering who had put it there. Andreu and I looked at each other and I pulled out my photo of the snowman I had built. 

Paul was so pleased to meet the person who had built his snowman a friend. The Camino seems to be full of moments like this. 

And now we are five

As with many caminos, by the last couple of days, people are getting tired, they've had lots of time alone and are now walking together. I am walking with Japan, Portland, Barcelona and UK. 

This morning we left Portomarin in a heavy fog, very cold, and lovely natural beauty. 

Spider webs but o think the spider died. 

Lunch was caldo gallego, a lovely nutritious soup, beer and followed by ice cream. And then the sun shone. 

And Nick has happily taken up walking backwards down hills, as he too finds it easier on the knees. 

We are in a private albergue in Palas de Rei. Very clean, lots of hot water, and an Irish guy in the room with a bottle of cava as it's his birthday. We're waiting for everyone to have their showers and then we'll head out to celebrate. 

Triacastela, Sarria y Portomarin

I'm now walking on and off with Nick from the UK and Andreu from Barcelona. Yesterday Nick and I stopped for a bit, to take off jackets and have some water. He's the only guy here walking in shorts. 

We landed at a cafe that was under renovation but they welcomed us and served some steaming chickpea soup. 

After this I was stuffed but something got lost in translation and the woman in the bar came out with a platter holding two thin steaks and a pile of chips. Fortunately Nick has a healthy appetite and was able to demolish much of it. I headed off while he rounded out the meal with a coffee and herbes (sp?), a liquor. When I arrived in Sarria, Andreu and Naoki had already arrived as had Lawrence from Portland. Because we we'd all had fairly big lunches, dinner was beer and bar snacks. 

This morning we headed off just after 8, going to get breakfast in Barbadelo but nothing was open. Finally at the 6km mark we found a small mercado that also served bocadillas, so that was breakfast. 8km later we found a bar in the sun and had coffee and nut cake outside. Fabulous. 

It's now 4:30 and we've arrived in Portomarin which is a tough sharp downhill and then a million steps up to the town, but the views are lovely. 

They are replacing the old markets with beautiful new ones and already there is graffiti. 

Old and below is the new, which has likely been in place for less than one week. 

Downhill is the hardest

After the fog settled last night, it didn't lift. Seven of us stumbled out into the dark to have dinner in the only place open. The caldo gallego, a greens and potato soup (sometimes with beans) is fabulous. Very warming. And now for dessert we are being offered tarta de Santiago as well as the usual flan, rice pudding, ice cream. In fact we started the morning back at the same place, having coffee and tarta. And so we set out. Matteus and Andreu at 9am. 

Admiring the views......none to be had. 

And this is me with a very famous statue a few km down the road. 

There is a project afoot in Galicia to redo the markers so today I saw at least 30 of these. They are newly dug in and someone will come along and put the blue and yellow shell in the top section, a yellow arrow below it and then a brass plaque (usually) displaying the number of km from Santiago. Currently I'm 133.8km from Santiago. 

I walked for an hour with Lawrence from Portland and after our 10 am coffee, he blitzed. I told him to please not wait up for me as much of today was downhill and I had to go backwards. I finally stopped for lunch at the 18km mark and for 4.60€ this is what I ate, including beer!

I've now arrived at an albergue in Triacastela and I'm the only one here. I have a single bed, with no bunk above, right beside the heater. Luxury. There's also a hair dryer in the bathroom but I washed my hair last night so don't need it. First one I've seen though. 

I've rec'd a text from Nick, a Welsh guy, who's at a different albergue and he's going to pick me up to go hunting for food. Over and out!

Aretha and James

It's finally started to rain. A very misty rain, occasionally helped along with a wind. So for the first 8km I felt I needed a little help, so I had that funky lady, Aretha Franklin, shuffling along beside me and boy, the kms flew by. By the time I reached Trabadelo, I was ready for my tortilla and café, so stopped here. 

Matteus and Nick came in 10 minutes later and the three of us sat by the fire and rested. They left and I rested some more. I find if I can rest my legs for about an hour, every ten km, then I can carry on with good energy. 

Most of today has been on tarmac but it's quiet. 

When I took the next picture, I was dancing to James Taylor. Must have been quite the sight but I'm by myself so....

When I stopped for coffee I realized that I had left my pocket open and my maps were wet so I spread them out. I get all sorts of comments but many others refer to the maps. 

Andreu passed by my second stop so rested a bit and we walked the last 10km together to O'Cebreiro. We walked on mud but also had great views. 

We arrived at 5:30, checked the church to have our Credencial stamped and by the time we walked out of the church the fog had rolled in and the temperature had plummeted. We're now at the albergue, washed and in clean clothes. The dirty clothes are in the washer as there is actually a dryer here. Bonus!

Cold mornings

We left El Acebo, happily bundled up as the albergue was sooooo cold because the heat is turned off by 8pm. We were greeted with a beautiful sky as we set off. 

We had shared some figs and a chocolate bar and now were in search of breakfast. I remembered Molineseca as a bustling town and it is in May but not so much in November. This picture would lead you to believe there are cafés open but not so. 

We finally did find one place with two tables, four seats, and had warmed up tortilla and coffee. Fabulous. 

At one juncture in the road we went seepage ways. I walked along a longer, more picturesque route and the two guys took the road route into Ponferrada. 

This was in the little village I passed through. At Ponferrada I checked at the albergue and received a very brusque "cerrado". It was 1pm and it opened at 3. I moved on and bumped into Andreo who told me that Ferdinand had gone ahead......with my extra gloves but that's ok. So we went into a cafe and ate. 

Waffles and chocolate. It was still very cold outside and everything was closed so we tried the other albergue. The difference in greeting was like night and day so we decided to stay. Nice sheets and blankets, sharing a room with a Korean man and his mother. She speaks no English. 

Then Matteus from Sweden appears. I had shared dinner with him in Astorga so it was good to see him again. He joined Andreo and I in baileys (me), chocolate (them) and then we walked around Ponferrada and found a place for a glass of wine and dinner. 

This morning we walked on, through vineyards and am now in Pieros resting my legs. I may walk another 5 km to Villafranca. 

Made it to Villafranca del bierzo to a beautiful WARM  albergue. And it's now wine time.